First Floor 6 Fromeside
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THE LETTERS OF JERRY ANDERSON
Jerry Anderson came from a military Scots Anglo-Indian background and his was a third or fourth generation. Anderson Road a main thoroughfare in Quetta bazar was named after his father or grandfather. Jerry claims to have spoken several local language which included Farsi, Pashto, Brahoui , Sindhi, Punjabi and of course Urdu and English. Jerry travelled widely into Iran , Afghanistan and beyond collecting animal, bird and carpet specimens for clients in the Gulf and made contributions to Edinburgh museums. Thus he had very special access to unique information.
Some the information contained within might not make for easy reading as he was a unashamed white supremacist. My abiding memory in the company of Jerry was once being royally entertained by Brahoui tribal leaders at a 5 star hotel in Karachi. This colourful and unpredictable man was highly regarded in Pakistani establishment circles. The tragedy being none none his information was committed to any proper paper or book however following my introduction to Tom Cole he visited Jerry to make the live recorded interview, the publication of which resulted in Hali ( see link above ).
• G Saville Seligman & Talbot Hughes, Domestic Needlework published by Country Life, London 1926 ( limited edition ) - Imperfect copy not A1
• George Watt, Indian Art at Delhi 1903
• Late antique/Coptic and Islamic Textiles of Egypt Wolfgang Friedrich, and Ernst Kuehnel published E. Weyhe, New York, 1926
• A Peep into Tookistan, Burslem Rollo Gillespie, London 1846. Original complete copy ( not a reprint ) condition unimportant
• Style & Status Imperial Costumes from Ottoman Turkey
paper back exhibition catalogue 2006 ( Not the large hardbound book )
• Catalogue of a collection of old embroideries of the Greek islands and Turkey.
Burlington Fine Arts Club Wace A. J.(Alan John Bayard); Lawrence William Matthew Trevor Sir D Bart. 1914 edition
CONGRATULATIONS JOHN SANDOE BOOKS
Good luck with the re-opening on Wednesday 14 May evening. We were happy to contribute towards the shop refurbishment.
Paul Nels died on Easter Sunday. He was a veritable brick of a neighbour a few doors down to our 1980s Mayfair office at South Molton Street London. Paul always bought the rounds for the less fortunates and will be ever so fondly remembered. His service ; West Chapel at Golders Green Crematorium, on Thursday May 1st at 4 p.m. Donations to Médecins Sans Frontières (http://www.msf.org.uk/)
Tribal and Textile Show – a Caskey & Lees Exhibition
Fort Mason, San Francisco, California USA (Stand B11 in Central Aisle )
Dear-oh-Dear, Gilbert & George. What’s that Frontier Ziegler carpet doing ? Just because you like the colours of it. You CAN do better.
Photo courtesy Derry Moore / London Evening Standard
Gertrude Bell and Iraq – A Life and Legacy Conference
Royal Society and the British Academy, London
The life and legacy of Gertrude Bell in Iraq will be examined in this major international conference, organised by British Institute for Studies in Iraq with the British Academy, and in association with the Gertrude Bell Archive at Newcastle University. The sessions will cover a range of topics, such as Bell’s experience as a woman in the man’s world of British Intelligence. Other subjects explored will be her views of the Ottoman Empire, her role in the making of the Iraqi state and monarchy and her interest in Iraq’s ancient past.
In order to participate for this free conference please visit the British Academy website. It is very simple and easy to join and register Link
Keef, if that Aubusson carpet is still rucking under the dining table at Richmond you really need to have it seen to properly. Whoever ripped you with that overpriced modern circular Indian carpet has been taking the Mick. You can do far better.
Great show at Glastonbury but for my money the encore playlist could have used Gimme Shelter rather than the hoary predictables. A long way from playing second on the bill to Jonny Kidd & the Pirates….
This sale brought $43.8 million, unsurprisingly way over the pre-sale estimates, making it the most successful carpet auction ever held. The sale of 25 carpets was a complete sell out although unbalanced by the 17th century Clark Sickle-Leaf Carpet sold for an eye-watering $33.8 million, a new world auction record for any carpet .
We have been fortunate in adding to our archives several fascinating early 20th cent London carpet catalogues with ephemera and price lists etc. These give a remarkable insight into the dynamic oriental carpet retail scene in the Edwardian era and 1920s. Selected material from these will be added to our reference lists GB & Eire Oriental carpet dealers 1792 - 1951 at a later date.
Director Joe Wright on the set at Shepperton with Keira Knightley.
Anna Karenina is a costume drama movie to be released on 7 Sept 2012 in UK adapted from Leo Tolstoy’s 1877 novel. Starring Keira Knightley, Jude Law, and Aaron Taylor-Johnson it was directed by Joe Wright. Textiles and costume for the set were supplied by us to Working Title Films at the nearby Shepperton Studios and another location at the British end of the production.
See lower right column across and below April 2012 item Gift to Ditchling Museum
A Balouch Brahoui supplementary weft flatweave donation from my Quetta days.
This now makes a tally of three of this type we have donated to the V&A’s famous Balouch collection. Two similar older items of Pak.Balouchistan / Southern Helmand were given in 1999. These earlier items T.599-1999 and T.600-1999 were sourced via Quetta, Pakistan in the early 1980s.
V&A collection T.599-1999
We found this card in a recently purchased copy of Harley Clark’s famous and much loved book Bokhara,Turkoman and Carpets of Afghanistan published 1922. On the reverse side of the hand written card is a receipt in Ababic and English dated 1923 describing the purchase of a ” Bokhara Curtain ” almost certainly a Suzani embroidery bought en-route from British India in the Port Said branch of Chellaram’s.
NB _Inside the book is an intriguing dedication handwritten by the American journalist John Kimberly Mumford (1863 - 1926)
One of two tents obtained in the 1980s has recently been given an airing by Milton and Ann Cater near Byron Bay NSW Australia. The other sibling tent was donated to the Josephine Powell collection previously housed at the old Imperial Mint (Darphane-i Âmire) located in the first courtyard of the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul. Now probably transferred to either Koç Collection or Turk ve Islam Museum. There may be a similar tent in London’s Horniman Museum which were acquired around the same time by Ken Teague emeritus assistant keeper. The Horniman Museum has had a long-standing interest in former and present-day nomadic societies. Systematic collections of nomadic material culture from several parts of the world have been developed as a result of the Museum’s collecting policy.
During 2011 we supplied material and costume to Hollywood’s latest epic yarn of the comic strip caped crusader hero Batman. In particular the odd costume in the prison scenes which were filmed in the UK and elsewhere under the working title of Magnus Rex . Now on general release it is the concluding film of a trilogy and directed by Christopher Nolan ( pictured above ).
The new museum at Ditchling will be open by Nicholas Serota on 21st September 2013. Liz always said he was a twit
The donation consists of a half shawl brought from Russia by the famous textile craftswoman and artist Ethel Mairet 1872 - 1952. The item came with an attached yellow label in her own handwriting. This half piece came with two other very similar complete twinned or double shawls one of which was recently acquired for the set of a forthcoming Warner epic Tolstoy film Anna Kerenina
The second complete double shawl is presently in a private collection in California. Other Russian linen and linen damask items from the same source was donated to the reference collection at Farnham Art College UCA
Ditchling is a small village to the north side of the Southdown hills, near Brighton, Sussex. Ditchling was famous due to the artists community which included Brangwyn, Gill etc in the 1920s. Some their works and detailed life histories can be seen at the soon to be restored local Ditchling Museum.
Portobello Road unit on Saturdays will close on 01 July 2017*
Goodbye Portobello Hello Stroud
The London ( Acton ) stockroom operates by appointment from Sep 2017
The Workshop continues see address/ co-ordinates
UNIQUE CARPETS LOST
With the burning down of Clandon House it seems London’s oldest known hand knotted carpet has been destroyed. Reported inaccurately by the National press as 17th rather than 18th cent. A Passavent ( Exeter ) carpet lay on the floor while the only surviving Parisot ( London ) rug hung allegedly on the wall of the same ‘Barlow ‘ room.
Given reports the Passavent carpet as feared lost this bodes not at all well for the unique Parisot. Also lost ” Mortlake tapestries”.
From notes on our page:
PADDINGTON (?) FULHAM Peter Parisot
Paddington then Fulham, London in 1749 then 1750 and 1753 to 1755
Established at Paddington 1749/50 (?) then moved to Fulham 1753 by French immigrants from Savonnerie Peter Parisot (?) / Pierre Polré / Louis Théu. Looms moved to Exeter c.1755 to establish there. Verified example of this production can be seen today at Barlow Room ( State Dining Room ) Clandon Park, Surrey (National Trust property open to public ).contact Caroline Stone
Having long been involved with the collection at Herterton House Nursery,Northumberland its a pleasure to see that the National Trust owned ( privatly leased )house and nursery garden is to be featured in a forthcoming book in April by Pimpernelpress. Very well regarded in gardening circles for its exquisite garden it is less well known that the layout and aesthetic has been influenced by Persian carpet design.
There is to be a book signing by the author at Barter Books, Alnwick, Northumberland on 13 July 2015
At the National Gallery London there is this rather intriguing portrait of the author Robert Louis Stevenson and exotically attired wife done in 1885 by the society portrait artist John Singer Sargent (1856 - 1925). One only gets a tantalising impression of what looks to be a rug from Malataya or some other Kurdish East Anatolian carpet.
The latest Ridley Scott epic film Exodus is about to go on general release. Some of the textiles were purchased from us for the set.
A 2500 year history of the ‘ Persian ‘ carpet.
Clive Rogers will give an illustrated talk at the Institute of Arab and Islamic Studies, Exeter University on the evening of 19th Nov 2014.
A very great privilege to be invited to a private viewing of the Baldwyn Chasuble circa 1450 at Salisbury Cathedral. Surely one of the greatest English late medieval embroideries set onto an early 16th cent complex Italian velvet.
Flickr link for more images of the Balwyn Chasuble
Foe more see Opus Anglicanum The Evelyn Thomas Database of Medieval English Embroidery
Scanning electron microscope image of woven silk
” Fitted carpets were thought to be a great extravagance during the 19th century because they were built-in to the room and could not be taken when the family moved. Large rugs with Turkish designs were popular instead as these could be bought in many different sizes “
Courtesy British Library
A seasonal reminder about moth and their larvae
Unused woollens and stored carpets need protection. The Alien environment for moth are UV light and freezing temperatures. So put any precious pashmina or felt type woollens and precious small rugs in a plastic bag into a freezer a couple of times through the summer. Carpets and rugs in light will not suffer unless they are left unnoticed under dark corners and furniture but it is a good idea to check the back edges. A combination of Spring cleaning hoovering and shaking out your carpets will help protect valuable possessions. Go to our links ThermoLignum and MetroPest to get more help and advice
Meanwhile see more of the incredible caterpillar world in this short film
The Silk Pavilion
As a result of severe local flooding the studio at Wraysbury will remain closed until Monday 17th February. Mercifully we were not inundated as have several 100s of local homes. The Thames bursting at Chertsey downriver has eased the flood levels here. Local trains and buses are affected but not our road access via B376 to Junction 13 at M25
Heartbreak from Cairo The bombing of the Islamic Museum of Art Cairo
Report from Iman Abdulfatah / Image courtesy Washington Post
* update **
SOAS lecture on current situation 15th October 2014
7pm Kahili lecture theatre
“Since many of you have contacted me privately to inquire about the damage to the Museum of Islamic Art, I am going to take this opportunity to share what I know and saw this morning and afternoon.
First of all, I want to clarify that the images circulating on social media are of the interior of the National Library and not the Museum of Islamic Art (as far as I saw, no one was allowed inside the Museum but the police and inventorying committee comprised of staff members). While the two institutions share the same building, the Museum (Ministry of Antiquities) is accessed from Port Said Street, the street of the blast, and the National Library (Ministry of Culture) from around the corner on Muhammad Ali Street. This may seem like a trivial bit of information at the moment, but is important to consider because Museum and Library are institutions that are now under the management of two different government ministries/bureaucracies.
Secondly, I cannot really speak about the damage to the National Library (I didn’t bother to go around the corner), but had access to the Museum because of my previous work there. Without exaggeration, the damage is really indescribable: unfortunately, many of the glass window panes were shattered as a result of the blast, including some of those on the side facade, that facing the Museum Garden; and the adjacent annex that was built to create space for the administrative offices after the renovation was also damaged, as was the main entrance of the Museum. There are also several potmarks on the main facade (built in 1904). Unfortunately, there is water damage/flooding that is limited to the area of the building that corresponds with the Library (for now).
I was kindly allowed to enter the area of the Museum Garden, and was able to take a peek inside the Museum from the side entrance. As you can imaging, the vibration from the blast did break several showcases; I also saw fallen gypsum board from the false ceiling and damaged objects. Regarding the objects, a committee consisting of the director and curators were assessing and inventorying the damage in the presence of the police (this is protocol, but the MIA is now also a crime scene), a process that I think will take several days considering the amount of debris, number of objects on display (approximately 2000), and the storerooms that are on the premises. I do know that some of the enameled lamps from the Museum’s prized collection, the largest in the world, were damaged – if you have visited after the renovation you might remember that there were about 20 lamps on display: 12 in the gallery in front of the main entrance, and the rest in several galleries facing Port Said Street.
As per the director, who I am in regular contact with, the Museum has been receiving lots of needed supplies and materials. He will let me know if there is anything that can be done to help informally. The situation might be different at the National Library, but I cannot really speak to that.
Two more links to reports circulated by Brendan Lynch:
The slide-show shows the damage to the Museum of Islamic Art’s building and every window was blown out with considerable damage……..
According to the National Geographic site – see below - the Fatimid ceramics were not affected but ceilings collapsed and the glass of every vitrine was shattered with three Mamluk mosque lamps being destroyed. Everything they can move has now been taken to the basement.
Introducing two short films documenting the work we do.
Many thanks to Fereday Films for making this possible.
Change to Terms and conditions for the ORTS Cup Award 2014.
Entry dates have been relaxed back to allow entrants under 25 as of 31st December 2012 instead of only to 1st September 2013. Also the entry period has been extended to up to 15 May 2014 with winners announcement to coincide at the Society’s AGM in June 2014.
The Society’s Annual Silver Cup plus three years free Society membership.
One week sole occupancy of an antique wooden house in thehistoric quarter of Istanbul (Blue Mosque).
Complimentary flight from the UK.
The Society’s Annual Runners-up Silver Cup
Two year’s free membership of the Society
To download an entry form
The new Museum at Ditchling Sussex has been officially opened on 20 Sept 2013 by Nicholas Serota,Director of the Tate. In the past we have worked with Ditchling Museum researching Frank Brangwyn and Ethel Mairet in particular. Ditchling is a village near Brighton which was home to a group of artists including Gill. The village had and still has connections with artist weavers as well as painters.
ORIENTAL RUG AND TEXTILE SOCIETY GB
Antony Wynn will talk on Cecil Edwards and Brian Huffner in Persia
Antony has a digital copy of an album of photographs that Bryan Huffner took in 1948-9, on his epic trip round Persia with Cecil Edwards when they were writing “The Persian Carpet” together. Nobody has seen these photographs, apart from one or two that Antony put in his book “Three Camels to Smyrna”. Antony is a gifted speaker and with his unique background the talk is sure to be of interest to the expert and non specialist alike.
Non Members are welcome. £6 fee on the door to include wine
The venue of the Society’s regular meetings and lectures from 2014 will be St. James Basement Meeting Room, 97 Piccadilly, London
As the moth season is in full flight here is a seasonal reminder from our good friends at Thermo Lignum who are moving their unique non toxic WARMAIR facility to Chiswick Park London from 1st August 2013
Thermo Lignum UK Ltd.
Unit 14 Bell Industrial Esate
50 Cunnington Street
Chiswick, London, W4 5HB
The facilities at the new premises will be similar to the current location, but with step-free entry via a 3.05m (10ft) roller-shutter door, which should improve deliveries and collections. Bell Industrial Estate is smaller than their current location, but the premises are slightly larger; access is good with a controlled security barrier; the premises will be secured and alarmed in accordance with best practice.
This remarkable early 17th cent painting probably by Szymon Boguszowick is currently on show at the V&As latest exhibition Treasures of the Royal Courts featuring a Kremlin floor littered with Lotto and Cairene carpets. The scene depicts the Tsar receiving a delegation in the faceted Hall of the Moscow Kremlin. V&A Exhibition
The stalwart family wool business essential to generations of oriental carpet repairers and dealers is changing hands and moving from its fifty year + home at Chiswick. The building nestles in the Fullers Brewery complex at Hogarth Roundabout on London’s Great West Road.
Going into the building through unlocked doors one steps back in time through the stockrooms on three stories obtained by caste iron staircases. In the office the typewriter keys are still thudding on paper with an abundance brown paper and string strewn about giving the impression of much postal supply and correspondence. Despite the main focus for orders being home embroidery the demands by oriental repairers obliged the owners to dye specific shades and dark brown and reds in particular.
All of Appleton’s materials are all sourced spun and dyed in Yorkshire. The business will continue since it is being taken up by an enthusiastic previous customer based in Oxon. All customers on file will be advised meanwhile anyone wishing to partake of a little bit of history should hurry down to Chiswick by the end of February.
The retiring proprietor having assumed the business from his Uncle now wishes to embark on a career in popular beat music after forty years in the building.
Appleton Bros, Thames Works, Church Street, Chiswick, London
Now that we have 3D cinema why not 3D Persian rugs? This is the latest wheeze dreamt up by those ever resourceful Tabrizi merchants. Found whilst trawling Iranian Facebook