Fench Art Deco wool curtains (215/180 drop x 120cm)

£ 850.00

215 x 120cm // 7' x 3'11"

180 x 120cm // 5'11" x 3'11"

Analysis as to technique courtesy Hero Granger-Taylor

The key is that the weft is all chenille yarn and chenille yarn is made from a pre-woven fabric which after weaving is cut up into very narrow strips in the warp direction and where, after cutting, what had been the warp direction becomes weft yarn in a new fabric - chenille yarn itself is apparently a French invention of the 18th century. 

The weave of the curtains is a broken 2:2 twill, made with only one warp and one weft, and where the colour in the weft is exactly the same on both sides but where the colour does not extend over the warp threads which are always the same beige colour. (The twill weave and the absence of a second warp or weft means that the fabric is very flexible, and 2:2 twills by their nature are good insulators.) 

I am deducing from these features that the loosely-woven preceding fabric - from which the chenille yarn derives - was printed before it was cut up and that the dyes used in the printing penetrating the fabric well so that there was no obvious front and back.

But weaving the resulting chenille yarn would still have been quite difficult, because, as in a weft-ikat, it was important that the pre-printed design lined up exactly. I note that the selvedges are all hidden on the made-up curtains - if we unpicked the seams (not advised) I think we would find a series of loops along the selvedges where the weaver adjusted the weft by hand so that it design lined up exactly.

Each curtain is one and half widths wide and the width of the fabric, without selvedges visible, is approximately 109 cm (43") suggesting 45" as woven, an old width for European textiles of wool (and incidentally an English ell, though I am sure this textile was not made England). 

As to the design, I could not find anything online very close in textile form but here is a good parallel in wallpaper. It is in the Cooper Hewitt collection where it is considered to be French c.1930.    

Ref. 19947 CPM


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