15/16th c. antique embroidered fragment possibly Burgundian (85 x 48cm)

 IN RESEARCH 85 x 48 cm  //  2ft 9" x 1ft 7"

A N. Europe late renaissance embroidery fragment of possibly courtly Burgundian origin.  The surviving piece is a part of what was once a rich and densely worked embroidery whose entire surface is smothered in silk and dense quantities of gilt metal wrappings. The design is of embellished oak leaves possibly that of Turkey Oak and floral rosettes some of which are blue and not unlike forget-me-nots . A particularly vivid red is evident in small amounts in some areas and could be dyed from Armenian or Mediterranean cochineal/kermes. The supporting ground base appears to be a linen tabby onto which a buff yellow silk is laid the layers of embroidery are worked through to the linen base.

The raised parts of the embroidery has suffered from friction in use from its high profile but instructively exposes how the thick stems which are formed using  parallel yarns formed grouped tubes sinuously drawn and wrapped in metal or silk in some respects resembling stump-work.

The extreme high quality of the work may indicate use  at court 

15 / 16th  c.

Ref. * 16246